It is hard for me to craft the right words to describe today’s hike through the Virgin River Narrows in Zion National Park. The magical combination of water and nature under a cloudless blue sky became spiritual and many times I found myself humming the Doxology.
This day, like so many others, began very early (before sunrise). We had the air conditioning running almost all night. But at 6 am the temp had dipped to a “chilly” 73 degrees so we could turn it off. We paused outside the RV for a moment without light pollution to appreciate the star filled pre-dawn sky. Then it was breakfast, dog walk and on the road by 7 am [NB to my Lehigh friends, I know you are finding all of these early morning starts completely unbelieveable but they are true!]. We dropped Molly and Liza off at doggy day care at 7:30 and our hiking guide met us there to circle back to the outfitters to get ready for the hike.
When our travel agent described this hike to me it sounded like we would be hiking with an occasional creek crossing. Imagine my surprise when I was fitted for waders. For those of you unfamiliar (as I was), you step into what looks like a pair of overalls with built in footies. Then you put your boots over the footies and that keeps your feet and body dry (unless the water is higher than your chest—more on that later).
Dressed in our fashionable waders and armed with walking sticks we went to the Zion National Park Visitor Center to board the shuttle. We went all the way up the canyon to the Temple of Sinawava—last stop on the shuttle. The first mile or so was a piece of cake; a paved walk that bordered the river. “Hah, I got this!” I proclaimed to my self. Hah was right. At the end of the walkway we entered the Virgin river up to our shins-just a tad bit deeper than I anticipated. Still the rushing cold water was soothing as we walked against current using our walking sticks to stabilize.
In these photos you will others doing the hike in just t-shirts, shorts and sneakers. That would pose a couple of issues for me. First of all, the rocks are very slippery. Not only did I appreciate the grip on my boots but my pole was like a third leg helping me balance. But more importantly the water was 55 degrees so they were shivering and cold. They stayed cold because there was no opportunity to dry. Although the air temp was a very modest 80, we were always in the shade. I am glad we went with an outfitter that provided the right gear.
We didn’t go straight up the river; we zigzagged crossing from side to side. I am just getting into the groove of finding where to place my pole and how to judge the current. Then our guide says, “Ok this next section will be chest deep.” Well, it wasn’t chest but it was certainly waist deep. This was probably the best part of the hike for me. It was so far out of my comfort zone yet so in tune with the adventuresome person I wish to be. In short, it was unbef*^#aliveable.
But the deep water didn’t last for long and soon we were back to zigzagging across the river. We stopped and ate lunch on the some rocks and were joined by an ever increasing number of chipmunks who took me for an easy mark. The joke was on then because I was ravenous and ate every bite of my sandwich.
Going back down the river there were a couple of changes. The crowds going up river now were getting larger so we had to navigate around more people. Also, as the sun was getting higher in the sky it was much more sunny and much less shade. I tried to tap Peter’s shoulder to ask him to get my sunglasses from the top pocket of my backpack. Instead, I leaned too far forward and slipped butt first into the water. Only my pride was injured—and I got my sunglasses.
It’s funny how a return trip on the same route can look so different. There is different light, different perspective. For example, on the way up the river I didn’t even notice this spectacular cut out/overhang. On the way back it appeared like magic as shown in the pic below. Even the chest deep section was different as I was now a “pro” and waded confidently.
We made our way back to the riverwalk and the end having completed a 5 mile hike with 24 river crossings (of which I navigated 23 without falling). Back on the shuttle we rode to the Visitors Center (where the air temp was over 100) and then back to the outfitters. It was a JOY to take off the waders and boots. They took us back to the doggy day care (where we left the RV). The doggos were happy to see us and we were happy to have hiked the whole day with the knowledge that they were safe.
Dinner was take out from an excellent local restaurant, “Wild Thyme”. Of all the National Parks we have visited, Zion seems to be the most upscale. It is a lovely town with plenty of character but you can tell it is a notch above. It fits my vibe well-rustic chic!
We have another day tomorrow in Zion to make more memories.
Oh this is FANTASTIC!!
Beautiful!